Frame Identification help

[sjstretch]

From studying the identification thread, I think this is a 1972 TDF Gitane frame, but I am new and trying to learn. So what do you think?
I picked up the frame as pictured, with stronglight head, record 3ttt stem - 22.0 mm, and campagnolo alum 26.4 seat stem for $40. Good deal?

I think the frame and fork are all 531 Reynolds - no weld seams
Fork has the Nervex Dubois Crown - forgot to get a picture
Someone started sanding the frame down for repaint at some point - so repaint is a must now
The back of both rear simplex dropout are stamped with ZO?
It has a serial number 3XXX C 1 (I know not much help with ID)
100mm fork spacing and 120mm rear

Pictures










Thank you

[verktyg]

You're correct about the age and model. A picture showing the whole frame from the side would help.

White paint is easy to redo. You could even use rattle can spray paint. You can get replacement decals from Cyclomondo on eBay for $45.00 USD.

Here's a link to some Tour de France specs I put together a few years ago:

http://www.gitaneusa.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2636

[sjstretch]

Additional picture

Would a set of super mighty cranks with drillium sprockets be appropriate for the bike? I can get my hands on a set for reasonable price - but they are not french pedal threads.

[verktyg]

Additional picture

Would a set of super mighty cranks with drillium sprockets be appropriate for the bike? I can get my hands on a set for reasonable price - but they are not french pedal threads.

Unless you were trying to do a complete restoration, those Sugino cranks are "period correct".

My rule of thumb is if a bike is all original I keep it that way. If I buy a partially equipped frame, or bare frame, depending on the value, condition, rarity etc. I'll restore it with original equipment components.

If not then I usually use period correct components or even newer stuff.

French (metric) threaded pedals are getting rare and... expensive. British/ISO threaded pedals are available everywhere and are available in a wide range of prices and quality.

Hint: Sugino used the same bottom bracket dimensions as most Campagnolo BBs from the 1970's. Some Shimano, Suntour and SR Sakae Ringyo bottom brackets can be used too.

VeloORANGE sells sealed bearing BB's for ~$50.00.

113mm or 116mm length should work fine with the Sugino cranks.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/ ... ps-63.html

While you have the frame apart it's a good time to have the head tube, fork crown and bottom bracket shell refaced.... if you can find someone with the tools to do the job and... knows how to use them. Also have the BB threads chased.


Do you have the parts for the Stronglight P3 headset?


Some people have had success using chlorine bleach to loosen a stuck seatpost.

Use some tape or modeling clay to seal off the top of the seat tube. Turn the frame upside down and pour the bleach down the seat tube through the bottom bracket.

Let is sit for a few days. It's best to do this outside or in a well ventilated area so any bleach that leaks out wont cause any problems.


Also, make sure that the "ears" of the seat tube lug where the bolt goes through is spread open a little. I use a large screw driver and gently pry open.


Last, before assembling, use a solvent soaked rag to clean any gunk out of the seat tube and steerer. You can take a rolled up piece of coarse sandpaper and smooth out the inside on the steerer and seat tube.


When assembling, take a glop of grease and spread it inside the steerer and seat tube. Do the same with the stem and seatpost. That will keep them from getting stuck!

[sjstretch]

Thank you for the information/help. I was going to ask about BB length...you are one step ahead. I can't decide on the VeloORANGE BB...not correct, too new - just not sure what to think. LOL

I do have all the parts for the Stronglight P3 - they were on the bike.

I will have to check around and see who in my area has the ability to resurface the bearing surfaces and chase the BB threads.

I got the seat post out with the help of a little chemistry...soaked it in a basic solution for 4-5 minutes and it came free. It looked like "most" of the seat post was stuck. I think I will run a small flex hone down the seat tube to clean it up. There is a good amount of paint and junk down in there.

Frame is 98% stripped of paint at the moment. Brazing is not bad. The frame does have a very small dent in the lower part of the seat tube. I did not see that until the paint was removed.

I have made arrangement to get the correct sticker set, but it will probably be a couple weeks before it gets here. Someone is on vacation, and it is not me, but I would like be. Not a big deal - lots to do before I need them.

Has anyone cleared coated over the foil stickers before? I was not planning on it. Just a thought I had.

[sjstretch]

Repainted pictures...foil stickers on order

[verktyg]

Has anyone cleared coated over the foil stickers before?

I have cyclomondo foil decals on several bikes and I don't see a need to clear coat them. I think that it might look weird?

Velocal makes them using several different types and thicknesses of material. Some are designed for clear coating.

The Velocal graphics aren't quite right on the Gitane foil decals.

I assembled, repaired, sold and owned Gitanes back in the 1970's and worked with Greg at cyclomondo to get the Gitane foil decals correct.

[sjstretch]

That you for the info on the stickers. I am just waiting on delivery from Greg. They are on their way.

[sjstretch]

Picture of the current setup, while I look for the correct parts to finish the build. I just put it together as a single speed (it should have gears!!!). My Zeus is my single speed...I don't need two.







Thank you

[verktyg]

Almost great job.... except it wasn't broken so why was it fixed!!!

The stem appears to be about an inch too high. It should be inserted 75mm to 80mm into the steerer so that the expander is below the threads.

When expanded in the threads a the top of the steerer it can cause catastrophic failure - been there - done that!

[sjstretch]

Almost great job.... except it wasn't broken so why was it fixed!!!

The stem appears to be about an inch too high. It should be inserted 75mm to 80mm into the steerer so that the expander is below the threads.

When expanded in the threads a the top of the steerer it can cause catastrophic failure - been there - done that!

I know, I know...I will unfix it - I want it to be broken. Just wanted to ride it a little.

I did reinstall the stem lower...rookie mistake. I also installed a seat post that is correct for a TDF with a pretty nice vintage leather seat (from an old 1960 Bianchi I found). The Bianchi also had Stronglight 93 cranks on it, that someone added along the way...and pivo bars and stem measuring 22.0 mm

[verktyg]

[sjstretch]

Anyone know the manufacture of this seat? Looks like the name ends in "ATH". Thank you for the help.

[verktyg]

sjstretch,

Looks like an old Italian saddle from the 1950s or earlier. Also, it's going to be a real ass hatchet because of the round top and narrow rear.

Saddles like these were used for track racing because most events were short duration.

A few years ago there were three 1949 Bianchi Paris-Roubaix models on a classic bike ride. They all had saddles like yours.





A 1949 Campagnolo Paris-Roubaix rear derailleur. They had a single chainring with a 4 sprocket freewheel. To shift, you had to reach down to the lever on the seat stay and unlock the derailleur while pedaling backwards, then use the lever to move the chain from cog to cog, then lock it back down.



I'd suggest that you look for a Brooks Pro or Brooks B17 saddle...